Cuando las empresas de moda se transformanen empresas de comunicación: los casos de Benetton,Net-a-Porter y Loewe

Contenido principal del artículo

Teresa Sádaba
Carmen Azpurgua
Pedro Mir

Resumen

El contexto digital ha provocado la transformación de las marcas de moda en algo más que meras productoras y distribuidoras de artículos de moda. En un contexto de desintermediación, a través de sus páginas de venta online o de las redes sociales, las marcas son emisoras y canales de comunicación directos para las audiencias. Esta transformación implica cambios profundos de las empresas de moda. Supone también nuevos desafíos para las estrategias de comunicación de las marcas. A través del método del caso, este trabajo realiza una aproximación a tres marcas de renombre y significativaspor su relación entre moda y comunicación: Benetton, Net-a-Porter y Loewe. El análisis desvela, por un lado, la evolución sufrida por las marcas de moda en las últimas décadas y su papel comunicador. Por otro, profundiza en el papel de la comunicación en el sector de la moda, en un contexto donde la comunicación meramente comercial da paso a nuevos formatos y experiencias. Elejemplo de los fashion films resulta paradigmático. Las conclusiones muestran de este modo un cambio estratégico para la comunicación de la moda. Semodifica la conexión con el producto, el tono y el tipo de mensajes emitidos. Además, se observa una evolución de las marcas, que se constituyen también como empresas de comunicación, donde resultafundamental entender al consumidor como una audiencia informada.
 

Detalles del artículo

Sección
Dossier Temático
Biografía del autor/a

Teresa Sádaba, ISEM Fashion Business School. Universidad de Navarra

Teresa Sádaba is a full professor at the Department of Public Communication of the School of Communication, University of Navarra. She has a doctorate and a degree in Journalism from the University of Navarra with an extraordinary award, a degree in Political Science by UNED. Fulbright scholar at George Washington University and visiting scholar at the University of Texas at Austin. Dean of ISEM Fashion Business School. She has published in several international journals such as Television and New Media, International Communication Gazette, Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, Sustainability, or Fashion Practice. The Journal of Design, Creative Process & The Fashion Industry.

Carmen Azpurgua, ISEM Fashion Business School. Universidad de Navarra

Carmen Azpurgua es doctora en Humanidades por la Universidad Rey Juan Carlos de Madrid, profesora de Cine y Moda y subdirectora de ISEM Fashion Business School, Universidad de Navarra. Su investigacion se centra en el area de lo visual y la moda, con publicaciones en torno al cine y las series y el uso de la moda en estos formatos.

Pedro Mir, ISEM Fashion Business School. Universidad de Navarra

Pedro Mir is Assistant Professor of Marketing at ISEM Fashion Business School. He gained his Bachelor’s Degree at Economics at University of Navarra and reached his Master in Business Administration at ESADE Business School. He has a PhD in Social Sciences from Universidad CEU Abat Oliba and his research focus is based on Marketing Strategy, and Online Marketing. He combines executive and academic positions currently as Academic Director at ISEM Fashion Business School at the University of Navarra. He’s visiting Scholar at Boston College (MA, USA). He is main researcher at the Asymmetric Qualitative Analysis for Marketing Management Research Center - AQUAMM (Boston, USA) and was key speaker and chair at the American Marketing Association Summer Conference 2016. Pedro published in several international journals such as Industrial Marketing Management, Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, Journal of Brand Management or the Journal of Business-to- Business Marketing  

Referencias

Arduini, S. y Paoloni, P. (2020). The IT strategy in the luxury sector: The case of a fashion company. In Gender Studies, Entrepreneurship and Human Capital: 5th IPAZIA Workshop on Gender Issues 2019 (pp. 211-226). Springer International Publishing.

Asnawati, A., Nadir, M., Wardhani, W. y Setini, M. (2022). The effects of perceived ease of use, electronic word of mouth and content marketing on purchase decision. International Journal of Data and Network Science, 6(1), 81-90. https://doi.org/10.5267/j.ijdns.2021.10.001

Barela, M. J. (2003). Executive insights: United colors of Benetton. From sweaters to success: An examination of the triumphs and controversies of a multinational clothing company. Journal of International Marketing, 11(4), 113-128. https://doi.org/10.1509/jimk.11.4.113.20152

Berta, G. y Onida, F. (2011). Old and new Italian multinational firms. Bank of Italy Economic History Working Paper, (15). https://bit.ly/3Wy7uN6

Bueso, R. y Pedroni, M. (2015). Mediatización de la moda. Moda en el entorno digital. En Sádaba, T. (ed.), Moda en el entorno digital (pp. 123-140). Eunsa.

Camuffo, A., Romano, P. y Vinelli, A. (2002). Benetton Group: The evolution of a network to face global competition. Cases in Operations Management, 179. https://bit.ly/4frIjo3

Castillan, L., Chheang, C., Denoux, C., Ferrenbach, C., Gérard, C., Hua, E., Van Holt, J. y Maniere, I. C. (2017). Online luxury: The code breakers of a traditional sector. Procedia computer science, 122, 579-586. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.procs.2017.11.409

Castillo Abdul, B., Pérez Escoda, A. y Núñez Barriopedro, E. (2022). Promoting social media engagement via branded content communication: A fashion brands study on Instagram. Media and Communication, 10(1), 185-197. https://doi.org/10.17645/mac.v10i1.4728

Cenizo, C. (2022). Brand narrative in fashion films of luxury fashion brands during the COVID-19 pandemic: multivariate analysis of their communicative potential. Hipertext. net: Revista Académica sobre Documentación Digital y Comunicación Interactiva, (24), 4. https://doi.org/10.31009/hipertext.net.2022.i24.06

D Arpizio, C. y Levato, F. (2017). The millennial state of mind. Bain Report. Accessed July, 27, 2024.

Díaz Soloaga, P. y García Guerrero, L. (2016). Fashion films as a new communication format to build fashion brands. Communication & Society, 29(2), 45-61. https://doi.org/10.15581/003.29.35923

Foremski, T. (2009). Welcome.When every company is a media company... https://bit.ly/3LOCR0Q

Frankel, D. (2006). The Devil wears Prada.

Fulco, E. (2019). L'impresa storica come fabbrica di cultura: tra Heritage e contaminazioni. Economia della Cultura, 29(1), 15-28. https://doi.org/10.1446/93074

Galloway, S. (2017). The Four: The Hidden DNA of Amazon, Apple, Facebook and Google. Random House.

Geva, B. (2018) Banking in the Digital Age. Who is afraid of payment disintermediation? European Banking Institute Working Paper Series, 23. http://dx.doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.3153760

Gielens, K. y Steenkamp, J. B. E. (2019). Branding in the era of digital (dis) intermediation. International Journal of Research in Marketing, 36(3), 367-384. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijresmar.2019.01.005

Godey, B., Manthiou, A., Pederzoli, D., Rokka, J., Aiello, G., Donvito, R. y Singh, R. (2016). Social media marketing efforts of luxury brands: Influence on brand equity and consumer behavior. Journal of business research 69(12), 5833-5841. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2016.04.181

Gómez Briceño, L. y Durán Manso, V. (2021). Los fashion films como modelo de branded content. Estudio de Inside Chanel (2012-2019). Estudios sobre el mensaje periodístico, 27(4), 1111-1123. https://dx.doi.org/10.5209/esmp.70453

Grau, S., Kleiser, S. y Bright, L. (2019). Exploring social media addiction among student Millennials. Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal, 22(2), 200-216. https://doi.org/10.1108/QMR-02-2017-0058

Grupo Benetton. Archivos oficiales: campañas históricas. https://bit.ly/4ca1VKo

Hubbard, R. C. (1993). Shock advertising: the Benetton case. Studies in Popular Culture, 16(1), 39-51.

Hudson, S. y Hudson, D. (2006). Branded entertainment: a new advertising technique or product placement in disguise? Journal of Marketing Management, 22(5-6), 489-504. https://doi.org/10.1362/026725706777978703

Iannilli, V. M. y Linfante, V. (2022). Exploring disrupting scenarios in the fashion retail and communication paradigms. Luxury Studies: The In Pursuit of Luxury Journal, 1(1), 45-65. https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00005_1

Jenkins, H. (2006). Convergence culture: where old and new media collide. New York University Press.

Kalbaska, N., Sádaba, T. y Cantoni, L. (2018). Fashion communication: Between tradition and digital transformation. Studies in Communication Sciences, 18(2), 269-285 https://doi.org/10.24434/j.scoms.2018.02.005

Kashif, M., Korkmaz Devrani, T., Rehman, A. y Samad, S. (2021). Love is not blind: investigating a love-hate transition among luxury fashion brand consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 25(4), 625-643. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-04-2020-0058

Katz, E. (1988). Disintermediation: Cutting out the middleman. Intermedia, 16(2), 30-31. https://bit.ly/4dpO1oA

King, E. (2016). Every single aspect had to be changed. Case Study. Loewe x M/M París. System Magazine. Spring-Summer 2016 (7). https://bit.ly/4frK1Wt

Lyst index 2023 (Lyst Index, Q2 2023). https://bit.ly/3WulAio

Mosca, F. y Chiaudano, V. (2020). Digital channels and distribution in luxury market. Marche et organisations, (1), 147-163. https://doi: 10.3917/maorg.037.0147

Muljadi, H., Angjaya, S. y Deborah, J. (2022). Benetton’s (In) Equality: A Semiotic Reading. Paradigma: Jurnal Kajian Budaya, 12(1), 1. https://doi.org/10.17510/paradigma.v12i1.572

Muntinga, D. G., Moorman, M. y Smit, E. G. (2011). Introducing COBRAs: Exploring motivations for brand-related social media use. International Journal of advertising, 30(1), 13-46. https://doi.org/10.2501/IJA-30-1-013-046

Noris, A. y Cantoni, L. (2021). Intercultural Crisis Communication on Social Media: A Case from Fashion. In International Conference on Fashion communication: between tradition and future digital developments (pp. 251-264). Cham: Springer International Publishing.

Noris, A. y Cantoni, L. (2022). Digital Fashion Communication: n (Inter) cultural Perspective. Brill.

Ozturk, R. G. (2014). The integration of entertainment and advertising: Advertainment. In Handbook of Research on the Impact of Culture and Society on the Entertainment Industry (pp. 440-460). IGI Global.

Pedroni, M. (2023). Two decades of fashion blogging and influencing: A critical overview. Fashion Theory, 27(2), 237-268. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.2017213

Pérez Curiel, C., Luque Ortiz, S. y Villena, E. (2017). Influencia de las revistas especializadas en el consumo de moda. Estudio de casos: Smoda, Elle y Harper´s Bazaar. Ámbitos. Revista Internacional de Comunicación, 39. https://bit.ly/3YpHHsY

Perreault, G. y Hanusch, F. (2024). Field insurgency in lifestyle journalism: How lifestyle journalists marginalize Instagram influencers and protect their autonomy. New Media & Society, 26(7), 3767-3785. https://doi.org/10.1177/14614448221104233

Priya, A. (2020). Case study methodology of qualitative research: key attributes and navigating the conundrums in its application. Sociological Bulletin, 70(1), 94-110. https://doi.org/10.1177/0038022920970318

Rashid, Y., Rashid, A., Warraich, M., Sabir, S. y Waseem, A. (2019). Case study method: a step-by-step guide for business researchers. International Journal of Qualitative Methods, 18. https://doi.org/10.1177/160940691986242

Rees-Roberts, N. (2020). After fashion film: social video and brand content in the influencer economy. Journal of visual culture, 19(3), 405-421. https://doi.org/10.1177/1470412920964907

Sádaba, T. (2015). Moda en el entorno digital. Eunsa.

Sádaba, T., SanMiguel, P., López-Fidalgo, J. y Guercini, S. (2024). Not solely influencers in the communication plan: a comparative study in the fashion field. Revista Mediterránea de Comunicación, e23717-e23717. https://doi.org/10.14198/MEDCOM.23717

Sanz Marcos, P., Pérez Curiel, C. y Velasco Molpeceres, A. M. (2020). Hacia un cambio en el sector de moda y lujo. Del dominio del influencer a la marca: Gucci, Loewe y Margiela. Revista de Comunicación, 19(2), 263-284. https://doi.org/10.26441/RC19.2-2020-A15

Saulite, L. y Sceulovs, D. (2022). The impact on audience media brand choice using media brands uniqueness phenomenon. Journal of Open Innovation Technology Market and Complexity, 8(3), 128. https://doi.org/10.3390/ joitmc8030128

Schaefer, M. W. (2015). The content code: six essential strategies for igniting your content, your marketing, and your business. Schaefer.

Shirky, C. (2008). Here comes everybody: the power of organizing without organizations. Penguin Press.

Shoemaker, P. J. (2020). Gatekeeping and journalism. In Oxford Research Encyclopedia of Communication. https://doi.org/10.1093/acrefore/9780190228613.013.819

Siles, I. y Boczkowski, P. J. (2012). Making sense of the newspaper crisis: A critical assessment of existing research and an agenda for future work. New Media & Society, 14(8), 1375-1394. https://doi.org/10.1177/1461444812455148

Sugden, K. (2012). Benetton Backlash: Does controversy sell sweaters? Advertising & Society Review, 13(1). https://doi.org/10.1353/asr.2012.a477903

Torregrosa, M. y Noguera-Tajadura, M. (2015). Los fashion films como relatos audiovisuales de marca. En Sádaba (ed.) Moda en el entorno digital (pp. 173-186). Eunsa.

Torregrosa, M. y Sádaba, T. (2023). The adaptation of species in the fashion media ecosystem: the case of Vogue. Popular Communication, 21(2), 114-129. https://doi.org/10.1080/15405702.2023.2239207

Tungate, M. (2013). Fashion brands: Branding style from Armani to Zara. Kogan Page Publishers.

von Wachenfeldt, P. (2018). Communicating seduction. Luxury fashion advertisements in video campaigns. Studies in Communication Sciences, 18(2), 353-363. https://doi.org/10.24434/j.scoms.2018.02.010

Zeren, D. y Gokdagli, N. (2020). Influencer versus celebrity endorser performance on Instagram. Springer Proceedings in Business and Economics, 695-704. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-36126-6_77